Yompin' in da Yupper.

Hiking the Sturgeon River.

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What's this? A river on a hiking page? Once a river rat, always a river rat, I guess. Actually, I am not the first to call the Sturgeon River in Michigan's Upper Peninsula an excellent hiking river. At most water levels this river is impassible, and at high water levels it's insane. Mile-long canyons with eight-foot falls in the middle generally are best avoided in boats of any type. There is, however, a gorgeous hiking trail to Canyon Falls, not far off Highway 41 near L'anse.

Follow the trail from the wayside on 41 a little ways and you will find a side trail that illustrates the role of Forest management in the U.P. If you decide to take the trail, you'll spend 20 minutes or so wandering through the woods away from the river, learning all sorts of things about forest management and harvestation.

The main attraction, the canyon, starts about ten minutes downstream from the wayside and continues for almost a mile downstream. Just before the canyon starts you will see a boulder-strewn stretch of river that should discourage anyone from trying to navigate the river this far from its mouth. A series of low ledges marks the beginning of the canyon. The rocks in this area are highly stratified but hard, which makes walking fairly easy.

Canyon Falls is the main attraction for most folks who just wish to stretch their legs and see some pretty scenery. The falls also marks the end of the "official" trail. The day we hiked here, the water level in the river was very low, but the falls was still pretty, especially in it's gorgeous setting. I can imagine that when this river is in flood, the power of the water flowing through the canyon is truly awesome.

The falls marks the start of the deeper part of the canyon, which extends almost a mile downstream. The canyon walls rise fifty to seventy-five feet above the water as it plummets off ledges, twists around boulders, and funnels through constrictions until the canyon debouches into a rock garden similar to the one at the head od the rapids.

The main trail closely parallels the canyon. Plenty of side trails give access to the river, where it is possible to climb down to the stream for a wade or swim in the chilly pools at the base of the canyon.

We only followed the trail to the end of the canyon, but it appeared to continue downstream, and probably does so for some distance. This part of the U.P. is quite wild and remote, with much public land. If you are up this way, be sure to check out Canyon Falls. You can just spend a few minutes stretching your legs, or you could hike, wade, swim, or trout fish for a day. The beauty of the canyon will stay with you long after you're gone.